29 January 2006

Surf Monster Waves

To hang ten with the pros, you’ll first need to learn how to stand up like a man. On your mark…

Start with a nine foot board, which is more stable than shorter, performance oriented ones. Once you’re beyond the breakers, lie on the board with your toes four inches up from the tail, so that its nose rises about a fist’s width out of the water. This will keep you balanced on the deck when you’re ready to stand. Now paddle toward a wave.

Get set…
When the wave lifts the board, grab the rails (the sides) and do a push up, bringing your knees and toes forward onto the deck while making sure the nose doesn’t dive underwater, if it does, you’ll sink. Once you’re stabilized, bring one foot forward and plant it in the center of the board between both hands; center the other between the rails.

Shred that wave!
Stand straight up, in a baseball batting stance, with your feet more than shoulder width apart, your knees bent and your weight evenly distributed on both feet. From this point on, try to stay up until some rad beach babes have seen you. If you get adventurous, start turning on the wave, the rest of your body and the board will follow.

Now surf the Big Kahuna…
You’ve ridden a four footer, but here’s how you can ride a three story liquid cliff. Before even leaving the house, I was told to check www.stormsurf.com to see where the gnarly waves are. At the beach, I'll ask surfers about local conditions, checking for breakneck sandbars and reefs, for the most part I try to avoid death. For Godzilla size waves, riders need jet skis to tow them or even helicopters to drop them beyond the breakers. You then paddle across a growing wave. As you hurtle along the face of the wave, you edge toward the shoulder, where the break starts, that’s the least threatening spot. When you get to the lip, you hang out there as long as you possibly can, putting yourself completely at Poseidon’s(Greek God of the Sea) mercy. With the wall of water crashing down, you can escape over the shoulder to go behind the wave or ride the tumultuous whitewash back to shore. Simple, huh? Well here some other tips: I have been told you'll need at least 10 years of training(my stupid ass has 3 months, lol) to even attempt a giant wave. Work on your cardiovascular system so you can hold your breath for a long, long time. And learn to relax when you wipe out, since you’ll be spending long periods of time trapped underwater, as I do.


Blogger JACK ARMY said...

Checked out those monster waves on the North Shore today. You won't catch me out there!


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